A phone call with the TT tech rep got the brake adjustment instructions:
--With a 5 mm Allen wrench in the screw on the outside of the caliper, screw in the outer pad until it is very close to the disc. I used a strip of thin paper from a magazine page as a feeler to get very close to the disc.
--With a 3 mm Allen wrench in the middle of the screw in the inner side of the caliper, move the inner pad toward the disc to get the lever feel you like.
--Don't mess with the cable adjusters.
--I previously posted about aligning the front wheels for parallel positioning, or maybe the slightest toe-in.
--The screw at the bottom of the handlebars on the sides of the bars clamps the bars in the position that you like the best.
--The screw at the bottom of the handlebars in the center of the kingpin sets the friction adjuster for the feel you like. I like it set to 8 lbs-ft on my torque wrench.
--With all the bolts properly tightened, the steering is still kind'a wobbly. The 20 mm long spacers between the Heim joint (rod end bearing) at the end of the tie rod is thin wall and doesn't give much side-to-side support. I found some nylon bushings the same size (8.3 mm I.D., 20 mm long) at the hardware store, and with a thick wall. These give much more support and make the steering steadier. But--if one tire hits a bump, more shake is transferred to the other tire & its handlebar. Your choice....
Seat Position fore or aft for traction:
--I wanted more traction from the rear tire. Schwalbe Marathon tires are a huge improvement over the original Chicken Skins (err...Cheng Shin) tires. Better traction, better road feel, lower rolling resistance.
--I moved the seat back to put more weight on the rear for more traction. I shortened the boom to the point where my heels just cleared the frame cross member and shortened the chain appropriately. Better traction on the rear, but less braking traction on the now-lightened front, and the front skips around a bit on rough roads. That's OK with me for the improved rear traction--your choice.