Rover seat slipping

Same problem and looked at Lowes, but no square u-bolts. Went to Academy sport and outdoors to the marine/boating/fishing department and found in the boat trailer hardware aisle galvanized square u-bolts and plates for under $10.00. This seems like it would be a better alternative because the hardware is "beefier" and one can really torque down, plus the nuts have a no slip coating on the inside of them so they won't back off. If there is no academy where you live, then perhaps a marine/boat dealer should have the same hardware.  


  • No Academy south of Orlando but we have lots of boat and trailer dealers.  They will sell those parts.  You placed the U-bolt behind the stock seat clamp, right?  Did you leave the stock shims in place?  Did you put any type of shim under the clamps?

    I used 4 hose clamps connected in a square and a rubber inner tube underneath.   I put a piece of electrical tape in front of the seat clamp as a reference point.  After a few rides, it looks like it moved about 3/8 " back.

    I'm headed to the boat dealer!
  • I used a rubber inner tube and left the seat clamp like it was. I really torqued down when installing it as well. Not sure how much they would cost not coming from academy. Good luck and let me know how it goes for you.

  • Florida bound the slippage may actually be due to the rubber? When we use clamps on a seat post it is always metal to metal. On the other hand if you have marked the ideal position you could drill a hole through the boom and use a bolt with a nylock nut to prevent slippage
  • Assuming you're talking about the older "square tube" Rover,  I'd be careful about drilling a horizontal hole through that tube right under the seat position.  Not only is that a high bending moment location, but I believe the tube is doubled there and you might screw up some feature that TT has in there.  Besides, you could leave yourself open to frame failure.

    On my Rover, once I was happy with the seat position, I put a stainless "hose clamp" on either side of the seat mount (fore and aft), metal to metal (no rubber) and cinched them down.  It's not very pretty, but then, not many folks look under there.  Been that way for three years and it has never moved.  

  • Is there a problem with the seat moving on other models?  
  • jeffacme, I think the coating on the frame is the issue.  Neither the plastic shims provided nor the rubber will hold the seat in place.  However, the alternative of sanding the coating off the frame, may void the warranty.

    I am tired of messing with it and may go back to the bike shop and ask them to adjust the boom so that the seat is tight to the boom adjustment knob.  That would mean the handlebars will be further away, but, I won't have to adjust the seat every few days!
  • I have never, nor have any of my customers, had even one instance of this (from what I read here, very common) problem.

    I think my shop's very different experience is due mainly if not wholly to the effectiveness of a little lubrication in the right places:
    • The diagonal surfaces of the 3 wedge-pieces must have a film of oil or grease on them (and has been mentioned many times, the center wedge must have its wider surface facing UP, toward the frame.)
    • The quick-release lever must be kept lubricated, both on its cam surface, between it and the concave black plastic cam-follower, and in the lever pivot. And even then (because even a well-lubricated external-cam skewer is not nearly as efficient or effective as an internal-cam skewer) a strong hand is required--or else a little extra leverage in the form of some kind of 'cheater bar', as might be made from a 4" or 5" piece of pipe or tubing (a piece of PVC would work well.)
  • Clamps metal to metal, a bolt or if you are worried about drilling  a large hole through the boom just drill a small hole and use a sheet metal screw.
  • I put a reference piece of red electrical tape on the top of the boom.  Before each ride, I check to see where the seat is located.  With the stock shims, I can easily move it.  I set it so the top is leaning to the back and the bottom to the front.  It does not seems to move much in that position.

    I got the U bolts but haven't had time to install them.  I'd rather be riding the trike than working on it! 
  • The surfaces between the frame and the seat shims are not lubricated.  The plastic shims are not lubricated (they are already inherently self-lubricating.)  It is only the clamping pieces (those which must slide against each other in order to clamp) which need to be lubricated.

    It is analogous to lubricating the screw-threads of a bench vise or a C-clamp.  Not the jaws, but the threads. It makes the clamping action much more effective, and very significantly reduces the amount of force required at the lever to produce a given amount of pressure in the jaws.

    I found U bolts on the Alpaca website if anyone is still looking for them.  I had to buy ones in a U shape rather than one with 90 degree corners but they still work.
  • Just wanted to update all of you.  It's been almost 2 months and my seat has not moved since placing the U bolt behind where the seat bolts to the frame.  I ride almost every other day so it has been tested numerous times.  Thank goodness!

  • pacebicyclehaven - thank you for the post.  I was going to do something more extreme (short of drilling holes in the frame) and then I read and tried what you suggested - lubricate the lever clamp/threads, and a little oil on the surfaces of the wedge pieces where they rub together - I understand now how that helps those wedges slide properly against each other to get the right wedge affect.  Took just a few minutes.

    I did a 4 mile easy ride - no slippage for the first time this year.  I thought "too good to be true", so today I put it to the test with a 10 mile ride with some hard hills where I really push my weight back on the seat.  Again, didn't budge a mm.
    I/m fairly strong, so I only hand tightened the clamp, did not do the PVC thing as was afraid I'd wreck it - wasn't necessary for me.

    When you service these bikes, do you put a little grease there?  Wondering if it is something I will have to do annually, or just when it starts slipping.

    Thanks again.

  • edited October 2016
    I had lots of problems with the seat slipping also, and had to make a little sandwich clamp out of 1/4" steel and some bolts. I faced the inside of the plates with leather. The seat has not moved since I put the clamp in place.

    My seat also wobbles from side to side as I pedal, and that is becoming highly annoying. I am going to make a cross brace this winter for the struts that go down the back of the seat to the frame.

    For a $1300 bike I would expect better. Terratrike needs to have a stern talk with their engineers.
  • librarymark, have you checked the set screws on the boom?  I have the same issue and these screws get loose because I move side to side as I pedal.
  • Fixed seat with adjustable backrest is the best. All adjustment done with the boom.
  • I bought 2 new Rovers in June both had the slipage. After lubing the surfaces of the wedges Ive riden over 500 miles no sliping  
  •   Lubricating the edges of the wedges, right, not the surface material that meets the tubing? I'm not sure what the seat clamps look like on non-Rover types.

      Can say with the Bontrager luggage rack the seat is much more firm. This version has adjustable rods on both sides of the rack, fully adjustable and the lengths can be cut down too. (Hoping to get seat & boom adjusted tomorrow? ... Seems when I have the time, work kicks in to distract me. Then get home after dark. If only had a garage to work in!)
  • I posted years ago that a stainless steel hose clamp is all u need. My seat has never budged an iota.
  • Same here.  The hose clamp has been on for 2 or 3 years and hasn't moved.

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