Mark Power front post

Do NOT lift your Rover by the front derailleur post made for us by Mark Power.

It bends at the plate.

Also, I recommend using the Shimano "Claris" derailleur, or at least not using the Tourney line. I'm having issues adjusting my "Tourney" cheapo one.
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Comments

  •   Yeah, thin walled aluminum. Unsure of a foam filled interior would help strengthen it or not. Can see the issues as one would think they could use as a handle to pull or push with. Wonder how thick the UT version was?

      Haven't put mine on yet. Unbearably cold here.
    ¬ Trikin' in Payette, ID
    http://idaho-trail-lizard.blogspot.com/
  • The derailleur spring load shouldn't be an issue for the post. For one thing, they don't come anywhere near the force the weight of the Rover produces. The other thing is the forces they do put out are against the cable stop, and wouldn't have an effect on the area where the tube and plate are welded.

    @Jrobiso2 I'd love to hear a little more about the bending. Did it just flex, then straighten out after you let go? Or did it stay bent? When you say it bends at the plate are you talking about where the tube and plate are welded together, or that the plate bent farther back towards/between the bolts?

    - PaulNM
  • It's not an over-design if you're worried about customers using the boom as a handle to move the trike around. ;) (Or worse, using it as a hanger.) There are also cost/assembly benefits to having the post be welded/formed at the same time as the rest of the boom.

    I wasn't able to find precise numbers on the average pound-force front derailleurs have, but it's definitely way less than the 45+ pounds the Rover weighs. You can manually push a derailleur with one finger.  The key point is that the forces are between where the derailleur clamps to the post and the cable stop. Both are on the round tube part of the post, so the spring forces are trying to bend the tube. They're not being applied to where the tube and plate meet, or the bolts mounting the plate to the boom.

    Lifting/moving the trike on the other hand.... Not only do you have the weight to contend with, but lifting the front makes the trike wobble side-to-side as it's balancing on it's rear wheel. That puts quite a bit of torque on the "handle", most of which is applied to where the tube and plate are joined.  It gets worse if you use the post to drag the trike sideways, as you have both the weight and friction forces to overcome.

    - PaulNM
  • It didn't bend on the round upwards part - it bent at the flat plate. Truthfully, I had mine mounted VERY far forward - post is hanging off the end by at least 3/4".  Probably because I was trying to make the cheap -ass Tourney derailleur work.  Possibly the plate would not have bent if it had not been so far forward.

    Tourney is off, awaiting a Shimano FD-M313-3, which, according to the Shimano compatibility chart is what I need for my Altus 22/32/42 CS-M311 CrankSet.

    Round part won't bend from derailleur pull as the force of the cable tension is directly in line with the shaft, assuming you aren't going with a side-pull derailleur.
  • It bent on the plate immediately behind the post. Stayed bent. I use a little (VERY little) elbow grease and bent it back into position. Made a mental note to never pick up the trike by it again.

    While I THOUGHT I was going to steal parts from my old DFs, I now have money into the post, 2 derailleurs, a rear derailleur/tensioner, a rear derailleur hanger, and chain length (plus a cheap chain tool).

    For a few $ more I could have gone with the Patterson. But I will say, the 17GI I get on the 22 tooth ring is wild - certainly tree climbing territory! Haven't had a chance to try the 44 tooth ring yet.

    I figure that while in real #'s I've got 24 gears, in reality I got 4 lower and 4 higher that I had before, for 16 effective gears. I don't think the patterson would gotten me down to 17GI, or up to 109, would it?
  • edited January 3
    Link to images of the setup

    All the images named 20161226-xxxxxxx are the new ones with the gear added.

    Now that I look at it, most of the whole post base is hanging off the end
  • What about a Microshift FD-M30? It's designed specifically for a 22/32/42 ring set.

    Also, do you have an example of adjustable angle front derailleur? LBS guy (not their main guy, thank God) had never heard of one.

    There's also the Shimano FD-M313-3 (63-66° spec) but I can't find anyone who sells it. They all sell the -6, (66-69°).

    Any help is very very welcome. I'm getting frustrated!
  • I have since moved the post back as far as i can. The welding blocks most of the front bolt groove, so it can't be moved to be properly over the crankshaft center.

    I've had thoughts of removing that front nut, inserting shims to get 67° angle and using hose clamps in place of the front bolt. Better be damn strong hose clamps, eh?
  • Mark Power says the catrike use 60° posts.
  • The 310 wants bigger rings. The 313 is for my 22/32/42. :(|)
  • I've asked my lbs to get me the microshift fd-m30 and I'll figure something out to get the post to the right angle
  • Went to the LBS and we've changed tactics.

    Going with the Shimano XTR e-type that doesn't even require a front post. I had no idea such things existed.

    Keeping the front post as an accessory hanger.

    Spoke more with Mark, and he acknowledged the 4 things I thought were wrong with his post and he's agreed to exchange them for ones that would work better.

    Email me at jrobiso2@ford.com if you would like a copy of the email chain between he and I.
  • Now that XTR changes everything!
  • jensonusa.com has them for $50 brand new.  I've ordered one since my lbs says they can't sell it that cheaply.

    I'm letting the lbs install it, as well as a nicer trigger shifter to go with it. The one I had was crap.
  • Trike is back from the lbs today but we just had a winter storm :-(. I'll let everyone know how it goes first chance I get to ride
  • The Amazon link is $89.99 and the ebay listing has ended.  :( 
    Worth looking around, though.

    How does it attach anyway? I'm having trouble figuring it out. It looks like that big ring is supposed to go around the bottom bracket, but what keeps the whole derailleur from rotating or rocking back and forth?

    Oh! Found another listing for $24.98:



    - PaulNM
  • edited January 11
    Jensonusa.com for the one I bought for $50 while amazon wanted $89.

    You actually take the BB apart and the derailleur hole goes in there and the final BB ring goes on and holds it in place.

    The one I bought is dual pull, so the cable can come from below and I guess you could hose clamp as a cable stop. Lbs routed mine to come from above and used my origin8 cable stop on the Mark Power post.
  • Jrobiso2's adventures? Haven't used mine yet, been low on the flow and not had the inclination to swap components in freezing weather conditions. We're starting to warm up now. (whew!)

      Wonder id he'd take the unused post back to swap out or if have to buy another?
    ¬ Trikin' in Payette, ID
    http://idaho-trail-lizard.blogspot.com/
  • I think he would. He sent me his new prototype. Much better. Just email him and ask for a trade. The one you have now will cause you troubles
  •   Okay, sent an email out. You like this new post of his then?  Hope he'll least allow me some partial trade-in at least. Has he made an account here yet, or too busy for such frivolous things?

      Man, winter hit me in the pocket book and then some. Hope i can recover. So what's the best way to pick-u[ the chain slack, or are you still experimenting - or you going electrical? I'd like to see about an electrical assist but I don't have the resources.
    ¬ Trikin' in Payette, ID
    http://idaho-trail-lizard.blogspot.com/
  • I'm still looking for a $5 long allen wrench, but I'll cut a front slot like the itah trike one if I have to.

    @Idahotraillizard I went with a rear derailleur locked to a fixed position over the SA's ring. I thought my pics made that clear.

    I don't need a post any longer, having gone with the expensive e-type front derailleur, but I am using Mark's original version just to hold the Origin8 cable stop. If I switch it for his new one, I'd have to recalibrate the derailleur and I just don't feel like it.

    Tomorrow I might get a chance to go to the hardware store and find pvc that fits into it so I can make side pipes to hold my headlight and maybe my Poloroid Cube+ video camera.
  •   Not viewed your pics recently. Internet woes, working later hours, both jobs keeping my free time sucked up.

      Starting to warm up here in the day time. Need to sneak some time in on the trainer. Most the streets here have 4feet of frozen snow over the sidewalks, so may be a while before I can get out riding again.
      Almost took the trike to storage to use it over there on the trainer, not as wet. But... I like seeing the Rover in the enclosure, keeps reminding me to get on and ride.
    ¬ Trikin' in Payette, ID
    http://idaho-trail-lizard.blogspot.com/
  • edited February 16
      Hmm, it's been almost week and not heard back from Mr. Powers... did you rub his rhubarb the wrong way??
    ¬ Trikin' in Payette, ID
    http://idaho-trail-lizard.blogspot.com/
  • Not that I'm aware of. He's not always fast to respond unless it's a new sale, but I think he will respond.
  •   What has changed from the first Rover Post to the current version?
    ¬ Trikin' in Payette, ID
    http://idaho-trail-lizard.blogspot.com/
  • From reading this thread it appears some of you are chasing an inexpensive long metric allenwrench

  • The post angle has changed.

    The front bolt can now be installed such that the post base meets the frame aimed directly into the BB, whereas before it stuck out in front of the BB. The front bolt slot goes all the way into/under the front post now.

    The cable stop has been moved to the bottom, to prevent the situation I had with my first derailleur - the wire had to turn almost horizontal from the cable stop to get to the derailleur; a situation which made it impossible to shift.
  • edited February 20
      Mark responded last Friday:

    "I re-made his bracket because I forgot to ask him (you as well) if you were mounting a mountain bike set of rings.  The derailleurs sit much lower and so the cable stop has to be much lower.  I sent you guys road setups.  So, his cable came out of the stop and went straight across and down a bit to the derailleur.  Not a good set up.

    So, yes I can provide another.  If won't happen until after 6 Feb. I'm on my way to run an adaptive cycling camp for about two weeks."
    ¬ Trikin' in Payette, ID
    http://idaho-trail-lizard.blogspot.com/
  • The Power post as it is now, with mods, is suitable for any kind of derailleur, having been made at a perfect 66 deg angle. Road derailleurs are 66-69, MTB 63-66, so a 66 is directly in the middle and can handle both.

    He's also solved the issue of correct alignment to the BB (as if it was a welded one like on a Rambler), so all in all, the new one will indeed suit your purposes I would think.

    And this means that we don't have to go for expensive E-Type derailleurs ;-)
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