Hacking Questions, and at what point shouild I upgrade to a different trike.

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  • Tube didn't bend, the flat part bent because that design stuck out too far from its bolts and in front of the BB by an inch.
  • New one, he's cut the groove in the base plate all the way trough the tube weld and welded it at 66 deg. This means that with an extra long hex wrench, you can tighten the front bolt with the bolt actually positioned inside the tube. This places the tube base directly over the BB, like the "real" front post trikes.

    He's also moved the built in cable stop to the base instead of the tube. This avoids my early issues where the cable made an almost 90 degree direction change coming out of the stop (and you couldn't shift gears because of it).

    I'll try and get pics of the new one tomorrow. I haven't installed it because I went with the e-type derailleur.
  • edited April 2017
      E-type??

      The one I have is like you describe, except it's not at 60~66° and the cable stop is at lower third on post. Base material is 4.5mm thick, and the post is 2mm.
  • edited April 2017
      So how did you find out what E-Type Derailleur would work with the Rover?

      And am assuming one could still use the post for mounting lights and other items, or is there not enough room? And where does is the cable stop on an E-Type?
  • @jamesr I don't know what a trammel is. If you're talking about how I aligned my wheels, I got creative. I tracked down my camera monopod and placed it between the wheels pressed under the frame. When the wheels tickled the monopod front and back I quit adjusting. I don't know if this is really a good way to do it, but the tape measure just wasn't cooperating.


    Incidentally, I frequently lift my rover by my post when trying to get it snug in the garage.  In three years of doing this I never got the impression that it would bend or snap. I don't think I'd have an issue using the Utah Trikes post the same way but I never tried it. It does seem thinner. They had their cable stop on the post, so that's where I put mine, but I put mine about 1 cm lower because I wanted more workspace for the derailleur. I'm using a Deore derailleur. It shifted pretty well on this morning's trip though I had some trouble getting it in the high gear. The chain tube seems to be pushing it towards the middle, so I probably need to cut an inch of tube off. I don't want to work on it till I've gone for a longer trip.
  • E-Type derailleurs are also known as low direct mount, e2-type, s3, and Spec 3. That technically only refers to how the derailleur attaches to the backing plate. 

    To make things more confusing, there is a backing plate sometimes called an E-Type backing plate. which is what @Jrobiso2 is referring to. That actually has a ring on it that goes underneath the bottom bracket retaining ring. E-Type backing plates will only hold E-Type derailleurs, but E-Type derailleurs don't necessarily need the e-Type backing plate.  

    The major advantage is that it means you can have a front derailleur without any post or mount of any kind. The backing plate attaches to the bottom bracket. You can have a front derailleur and leave your bottle cage there. (Or accessory mount, or whatever else you want.)

    The disadvantages are:

    1: You need to partially disassemble your bottom bracket whenever you attach/detach the backing plate, as well as the tools to do so.  (Usually just once, as the derailleur itself uses regular screws/bolts.)

    2: The derailleur is pretty specific to sprocket sizes. You need to make sure it can handle your biggest chainring in in the front, as well as the range difference between that and the smallest. (As well as the obvious, like chain type and # of chainrings in front.) This is somewhat true for all front derailleurs, but the E-Types aren't nearly as adjustable as clamping types on a post. 

    3: Not all derailleurs come with a backing plate, so make sure you check the listing of any you plan to buy.

    More info at:
    Slides 7, 10, and 15 are most pertinent. E-Type section is about half-way down the page.


    - PaulNM
  • Got my e-type with plate, etc at jensonusa.com. amazon wanted $130, jenson had it on sale for $50
  • I might order the  Terratrike tool.  My Monopod is infinitely adjustable, but the ends aren't flat so there is a little guesswork involved.



  • Moontimber,
    Regarding the twitchy steering, think the turn more than driving the turn. When I first got my zoomer I was all over the place when turning but then relaxed and softened the grip and started turning much smoother. I can do S turns going downhill at 20-25 mph now. 
    I still think all adjustable high seat trikes are more minivan than Corvette. Moving the to get into a comfortable riding position is different for everybody but moving the seat also changes where your body core and C.G. are and I'm convinced that changes handling some.
    ed


  • Trick I learned from reading about alignment on a trike, was after you get the alignment set use a little loctite blue on the locking nut.  This holds the locknut in place better and you can still break the seal if you need to make adjustments.  I did this just before I got out riding this spring and have had no problems so far, I check the alignment every couple of weeks.
  •   Las year I was having 'jerking' in steering. What I did was grease the king pins. That got rid of the jerking and the steering was more free - scary going down a hill a few times when I too had to let loose of the grip more - think the fear of wrecking was going to do exactly that.
      Not used to not holding onto the the bars so tightly, am learning to though. Now am holding more firmly on the handlebars when claiming grades to slow the surge pedaling some - another reason I want Biopace chainrings to keep the pedaling more uniform. That TDC pedaling issue again.

      Wished I could find an unused set of Biopace front chainrings though. Unheard of these days. Plenty of used online but one doesn't know how many mile are on them and if they may be worn out. Think these are 28/38/48 so hoping the chain will work. So much intricate carp to deal with it seems.
  • edited April 2017
    I loved my biopace knock-offs and used them for at least 15 years, but eventually I went from toe clips to clipless, and the biopace knock-offs actually became a nuisance.  With the clipless pedals I learned how to properly "pedal in a circle", something that's really difficult to do with toe clips and impossible with open pedals.  Pedaling in a circle dramatically improved my riding and left me in less pain after long rides, as I was using more muscles to mash my way down the trail - distributing the work as it were.  This was of course on my mountain bike.  I bought my first real road bike about two years after I got the clipless shoes, and then I found it unsettling to go back and forth between regular chainrings and the biopace knock-offs.  The bio-pace became unpleasant and they were showing signs of wear, so I got rid of them.   

    If I didn't have my clipless set up I'd probably want a biopace again too, but I don't think I'll ever go back to them.  The clipless set up was not cheap.  I was single and had more spending money back then.  My pedals cost me about $90 a pair, and I bought two pairs - one for the MTB another for the Roady.  This was about 20 years ago?  So multiply that for inflation. The combined cost on those pedals was more than I paid for my first mountain bike!  I stopped riding the road bike after about a year and moved those pedals to the Rover when I bought it.  The shoes cost me another $50, but that is not too different a price from any decent sport shoes.  I'm on my third pair of biking shoes.

    All of this is with good knees (Thank the Lord for granting me good knees at my age).  I can't imagine how you'd have to compensate if you are suffering from knee pain.  I would think it might be tough for someone with bad knees to pedal in a circle. 
  • It is. But the knees are getting stronger the more I ride :-)
  • Funny thing is, I can't find a tire on cst's site that matches what TT puts on the Rover!
  • Prob won't. I tried to find some Kendas
    To match the originals on a Diamondback a while back. I heard from a lbs that an amount of tires for a new line of bikes is predetermined. After those are gone, you're SOL. It
    happens.
  • It's there, just not in 20 inch anymore.


    TT has used that exact design for years, and you can still find the C917 all over the place. I suspect it's more that it's an older design that CST doesn't sell directly to the public anymore, just to OEMs and/or major dealers. Manufacturers and designer can be funny that way, especially if they don't sell to and/or directly support the public.

    Their "sexy and modern" equivalent (with a somewhat similar tread) seems to be the C1263, though only on the EU site. The .com site comes up with a completely different looking tire for C1263, who's tread makes no sense.


    It'd still be cheap and easy to mass produce the C917, but at the same time it seems they're trying to spruce up their name/image. (Or just become a more upscale manufacturer all together.) The C1263/Basic looks like the only tire without a flat protection layer that still bears their name prominently. The C917 I've seen don't have any real info on them, I only know they're CST's because TT's site says so. :)

    - PaulNM
  • I put a set of schwalbe Durano tires on my trike and they run with less rolling resistance than the marathons, firmer also
  • But does the Durano have the 3mm of puncture protection?
  •   Not all road or path conditions are created equal.
  • No, but the trails I ride are somewhat clean. My wife in 10 years of road biking here averaging 1000 miles annually has never had a flat using tires much thinner then Duranos.
  • Schwalbe's "tech" articles have been dubious in the past. They tend to ignore context.

    Treads are for two reasons. One is extra grip/resistance on rougher terrain. Smoother tires tend to slip on things like large gravel and sand.

    The other is to help redirect water/debris out from under the tire on smoother surfaces and prevent hydroplaning and/or sideslipping. This is why tire direction matters on some tread designs. Put them on backwards, and they'll end up trapping stuff underneath instead.

    Durango tires have less rolling resistance than Marathons *because* they're stiffer and flex less.

    - PaulNM
  • Well, now I feel stupid for asking! ;-)
  • Durano also have no tread. Disagree on the stiffness comment. But 100 psi makes them firm
  • Which is probably faster?  A pair of 20 X 2.25 at 100PSI, or a slightly skinnier 20 X 1.75 at 65PSI?

    Someone on Craigslist near me has a pair of 20" BMX tires. Similar tread to what I currently have.  They are 100PSI, but they are wide - 20 x 2.25. Is there a good reason to NOT put these on my Rover? I am currently using a pair of 20 X 1.75 designed for 65PSI.

    He's only asking for $20 for the pair, and they are still in the box.  I don't mind risking the $20, I mind taking the time to do the swap only to find out they are "slower".
  • Moontimber.
    Where did you get the orange accessory plug that tops the front derailleur tube? I think that would be a sweet mount for a small bike computer.
  • @Mrbill5.
    I 3D Printed it. I designed it to hold my GPS, which is essentially what you are thinking of but bigger and heavier. My current design is not good enough. The side posts that hold that round piece are too thin or something. Every seven or eight months I bump into it wrong and it cracks, dropping my GPS on the ground.

    If I thought there was a market I'd redesign it for better strength, but I don't think there's a big interest, which is why I never mentioned it previously. Designing something like that takes about 40 hours. Production with a 3D printer is inexpensive and quick, but a successful design takes a lot of time and testing. I'd be upset if someone emailed me and said their mount broke and their computer or smartphone fell off and got smashed.
  • Really cool. I have a small Cateye computer that is a lot lighter than a GPS or a cell phone I ended buying a Minora mount that I may or may not use on the derailleur tube. These days I use a computer just for speed and distance so it does not need to be close at hand.
  • @mrbill5
    What's too funny is two days after I made that comment I broke my mount again. At some point I should really re-engineer that thing.
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