Tires and grease recomendations

Anyone have a tire recommendation for tandem pro? Thinking I may try Big Apples or V tire Bmx Speedsters. Anyone upgrade to a wider size?
What are you guys using for grease?
«1

Comments

  • And Happy New Year to all!
  • Have used many different bearing greases since 1970, in cars, motorcycles, bicycles. Have used Castrol, Valvoline, Mobile 1, Quaker State, Finish Line, Park, and found that for my needs and greasing methods, Progold EPX is best.

    Been using Progold EPX red grease for over 20 years in all my bikes!! In any brand new bike I've had I take the wheel and BB bearings and removed the rubber covers; removed the old OEM grease and re-pack with EPX. Wheels, rear derailleur pulleys, derailleur pivot points, and
    Bottom Bracket bearings. Wheels roll freely forever!! Greatest stuff out there!! But when people ask me "Which is the best?" I always reply:" Some; is better than none". But the EPX is what works best for me.
  • I have a question on greasing the wheels. If you don't ride in rain, does the grease last longer? Also, how many miles can you go before the wheels need to be re-greased? Or do you need to measure it by years for less frequent riders?
  • That is something I never did to my used Rover. Tried to loosen that bolt but it did t budge. I have repacked trailer bearings. Don’t know what I’ll find if and when I get it loose. Going to look for a utube video...
  • I remember my dad repacking the bearings on his boat trailers. Don't remember ever having to do it on a bicycle.
  • edited January 3
    Finn59 wrote: »
    That is something I never did to my used Rover. Tried to loosen that bolt but it did t budge. I have repacked trailer bearings. Don’t know what I’ll find if and when I get it loose. Going to look for a utube video...

    One side is right hand thread the other is left hand thread for the 8MM bolt in the middle. You take the bolt off and the wheel and the bearings are exposed. You can use an exacto knife or needle to pry the rubber seals off so you can add grease to the bearings then pus the seals back on.
  • I remember my dad repacking the bearings on his boat trailers. Don't remember ever having to do it on a bicycle.

    Older/cheaper bicycles and some hi dollar wheels use cup and cone bearings they need to be taken apart and cleaned out, re-greased and while putting them together re-adjust the bearing tightness. Many wheels have cartridge bearings and you can pull the axles off and access the rubber seals pry them off re-grease put the seals back in and....ride smoother!
  • I have a question on greasing the wheels. If you don't ride in rain, does the grease last longer? Also, how many miles can you go before the wheels need to be re-greased? Or do you need to measure it by years for less frequent riders?

    For the front wheels one side is right hand thread the other is left hand thread for the 8MM bolt in the middle. You take the bolt off and the wheel and the bearings are exposed. You can use an exacto knife or needle to pry the rubber seals off so you can add grease to the bearings then pus the seals back on. I got mine in May but my habit for Years is to take my new ride bearing seals off, re-pack with EPX and re-seal. The wheels spinn smoother with the EPX. Depending on which rear wheel you have as to how to re-pack the rear bearings. My RAT rear wheel hub is same as any bicycle "freehub" type hub with cartridge bearings and rubber seals. Already did my rear wheel also. Wished anyone of you out there lived closer I offer my shop to teach people to fix their bikes/trikes.
  • Where do u live?
  • I have Zerk fittings on the boat and utility trailer. Easy to squirt some in.
  • Reminds me of the days when we had to re-grease or replace the wheel bearings on our cars frequently. (Or am I just aging myself again?)
  • edited January 3
    Finn59 wrote: »
    Where do u live?

    South Central New Mexico. Las Cruces, "In the little garage on edge of the Arroyo" All are always welcomed.

    YES zerk fittings make it all easier!
  • Las Cruces ! I worked at WSMR briefly. Ever ride over the Organ Mt. pass ?
  • TCEd wrote: »
    Las Cruces ! I worked at WSMR briefly. Ever ride over the Organ Mt. pass ?

    OH YES!!! Back many years ago!! Several of us would ride back to Cruces after work.
    Road bikes and mtn bikes.
  • Jrobiso2 wrote: »
    Reminds me of the days when we had to re-grease or replace the wheel bearings on our cars frequently. (Or am I just aging myself again?)
    Short answer: yes, unfortunately.
    Every morning that I am able to get outta bed, under my own power, is the start of a great day.

  • Have used many different bearing greases since 1970, in cars, motorcycles, bicycles. Have used Castrol, Valvoline, Mobile 1, Quaker State, Finish Line, Park, and found that for my needs and greasing methods, Progold EPX is best.

    Been using Progold EPX red grease for over 20 years in all my bikes!! In any brand new bike I've had I take the wheel and BB bearings and removed the rubber covers; removed the old OEM grease and re-pack with EPX. Wheels, rear derailleur pulleys, derailleur pivot points, and
    Bottom Bracket bearings. Wheels roll freely forever!! Greatest stuff out there!! But when people ask me "Which is the best?" I always reply:" Some; is better than none". But the EPX is what works best for me.

    Back(many,many years ago) in my BMX days, I used some "snake oil" type of lubricant to try to get that extra edge, but was only good for short periods. Probably just thin type machine oil, if truth were known. Anyway, was curious on todays tech for our trikes. Winter is good time to do, especially since we have been in the deep freeze for a solid week now, here in Iowa. Thanks for the tip on the Progold EPX.
    Now, if I could just get some experiences with tires.....
  • Just went out to the garage to see what brand of chain lube I had, Rockgold. The normally thin liquid lube is as solid as lard in a unheated garage.

  • In all fairness @TCEd, you live in the arctic tundra man!
  • Removing Rover wheels.
    First one to go was on left and pulling it off the spindle pulled the inside bearing out of the hub. Enough corrosion on axle to keep it from sliding off. Used some emory cloth to clean it up and put two new cartridge bearings on that wheel. A little fiddly but doable with careful tap, tap and a home made press. Relubed the right wheel which came off cleanly.

    Have since relubed both wheels by taking off the wheels and popping the seals off and reinserting. Last time I used a little 180w synthetic gear oil I carry in a ink cartridge refill syringe. Only a couple drops. Works though might not last quite as long as lithium grease'

    Rear wheel is 24" w standard bearing/race set up. Seasonal clean and repack.
  • I have to do this before we start in the spring. It’s a 2013 Rover. I doubt it has been looked at. Maybe 25 mph is doable. Downhill, coasting. Knees are
    saying they’ll stay at home for that
    attempt.
  • Finn, I feel your burn.LOL!
  • Bozo50 wrote: »
    Jrobiso2 wrote: »
    Reminds me of the days when we had to re-grease or replace the wheel bearings on our cars frequently. (Or am I just aging myself again?)
    Short answer: yes, unfortunately.
    Every morning that I am able to get outta bed, under my own power, is the start of a great day.

    AGREED!
  • TCEd wrote: »
    Just went out to the garage to see what brand of chain lube I had, Rockgold. The normally thin liquid lube is as solid as lard in a unheated garage.

    Tried so many chain lubes, on my road bike I had three chains, I would wash them in my parts washer, hang to dry, dip them in hot wax, hang to dry and used one at a time on my road bike. When all three were used then I'd repeat. On my mtn bikes I used Schwinn spray, {Really liked that one}, finish line, white lightning, tri-flow, and for the last 20 or so years, Pro-gold Pro link chain lube. It does have a "metal smell", but it seems to stay on the chain longer and collects less dirt than the other lubes I've used.

    I think that too many products are riders preferred due to trial and error. Ask any 5 riders which is the "BEST" {grease, chain lube, tires, shoes, etc} and you'll probably get 8 answers for each item. My "fav" reply when asked which is the best grease or chain lube is :"Some", cause some is better than none.
  • But is "lots" better than "some"? :#
  • But is "lots" better than "some"? :#

    LOL LOL .....uh NOT quite.......generally "lot's leaves a heck of a mess!
  • Always good to point out to the uninitiated. Never assume, that if some is good, more is better. It seldom works out that way. ;)
  • My wife actually put WD40 on her chain without telling me. Took hours to get that off and had to use a sonic sink cleanser before re-coating it with Boeshield T9.
  • I think back to when I was young and rode a bike everyday almost year round and the bike sat out in the weather. I probably never lubed or cleaned the chain, may have possible squirted some 3in1 oil on it but i doubt it. Later in life I had a number of dirt and motocross motorcycles and by then learned about chain lube but the products probably were more of a dirt gatherer then a chain lube. We usually took the bikes to a quarter car wash and sprayed them clean to include the chain and possibly reapplied whatever we had around to include 2 stroke motor oil, fork oil, WD40 etc.
    Today we're obsessed with chain and bearing lubrication and it has to be the latest and greatest space age product with a fancy name. It cannot be called oil or lube because that isn't space age enough.
  • TCEd wrote: »
    I think back to when I was young and rode a bike everyday almost year round and the bike sat out in the weather. I probably never lubed or cleaned the chain, may have possible squirted some 3in1 oil on it but i doubt it. Later in life I had a number of dirt and motocross motorcycles and by then learned about chain lube but the products probably were more of a dirt gatherer then a chain lube. We usually took the bikes to a quarter car wash and sprayed them clean to include the chain and possibly reapplied whatever we had around to include 2 stroke motor oil, fork oil, WD40 etc.
    Today we're obsessed with chain and bearing lubrication and it has to be the latest and greatest space age product with a fancy name. It cannot be called oil or lube because that isn't space age enough.
    Ain't that the truth!
    Although I have been impressed with some of the newer products out there.

  • Favorite grease? Hands down Phil Wood works on a ll types of bearings sealed and adjustable keeps water out and rolls smooth.

    Chain lube? T9 if you do not clean your drive train regularly, every week to two weeks and WD-40 If you do clean regularly. I know WD-40 sacrilege but it is great for maintaining a drive system that is kept really clean.

    In my experience assembly lube will have your new chain looking like a really long wooly bear caterpillar in no time.
Sign In or Register to comment.