Used BionX - need help understanding charger

I just picked up a used BionX system which included a 48v lead acid battery (9ah) with charger.
I've got it plugged in and the light on the charger is cycling from yellow to green and back, about once each minute.
Can anyone tell me what that means?
EBK-SLA489 is what's on the battery pack.

Comments

  • edited March 30
    yah - but schumacher website can definitely do it better.

    depends on what type battery you have as well as the charger. if sla battery type, real bad idea to use car battery chargers on the things.

    voltmeter comes in handy on this question. if you have a smart charger - schumacher is a major maker - and an appropriate charger, you are getting symptoms of a fully charged battery.

    been reading up on this stuff lately. got a pair of 12 v 55 Ah monsters that should be good for 100 miles of no-pedal riding, also have 3x12 v 18 Ah not so heavies, at least 60 miles no-pedal.

    staring at a v2 cycle analyst and a schumacher 12-24 volt 10 amp sla charger sitting on the floor at the moment. a trip to lowes in a few days to get terminals, wire stripper, wire etc and a few more days following for road trials.

    lot of 'gas gage' goodies available on the web for sla batteries, readout is in battery capacity % although a voltmeter could serve the same purpose. will be trying one out alongside the cycle analyst.

    by-the-bye: the bionix controller has been hacked by some nice german folks. forget where i ran across this but simple process to reset bionx parameters, give detailed instructions for tuning the bionx to your needs.
  • Check out message board bent rider online, specialty discus, power assist, bionix. Great link there to recent Spinning Magnets article
  • The data sticker on the battery led to a site that sells ebike kits. Apparently this was sold as a kit. The charger came with it, so I can only assume it's supposed to be the right one.
    Damned thing is heavy, and probably a bit old.
    This is for my wife's Trident Spike, and she likes long distance. Can anyone recommend a Li-ion replacement for it? I'd like her to get 50 miles on low assist. CAN I replace a lead acid with a Li-ion?
  • edited March 30
    The controller isn't the standard BionX; at least it does not match the pics I see.
    I think the EBK on the sticker indicates "Electric Bike Kit". Google brings up a site with kits that match the gear exactly. Also, I think it's geared, not spinning magnets. No rolling resistance.
  • edited March 30
    https://www.industrialbicycles.com/Motor-Kit-Rear-Direct-Drive.aspx is what the wheel and controller look like, and the battery bag is from the link in my previous post.
    Given that the trike kit was likely bought at industrialbikes in Dearborn, the previous version of the kit at that link is probably what's on it.
  • ok - is not a bionx. if a geared motor, mounted, spin wheel forward, no cogging. spin backwards, will get cogging.

    difference between sla and lithium is weight and safety. notice, when perusing lithiums, vendor reluctance to state battery dimensions and weight.

    safety - run of the mill yahoos do not talk about what can happen if the lithium bmc fails, if a lithium is overcharged, or if one of the cells is punctured. i note a prudent few lbs will not recharge lithiums in their building. whatever - do not go to sleep while charging lithiums inside your house. also, on that note, lithiums carried in a bag aint good to have aboard should you dump the trike.

    yes - can replace sla with lithium - liPo4 type is safest so far. do not use an sla charger on lithiums.

    chances are the wheel motor is wound for 36 volts and controller speced for that current level butcha never know. goldenmotor.ca is one of the few still selling geared motors wound for 24 volts, quite common a few years back.

    http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/power-ratings.html
    http://batteryuniversity.com/

    as a sidenote, justin at grintech ran a custom chart for me at 24 volts sla for the geared wheel i just bought. no possibility of thermal shutdown, about 120 miles with light pedals if i wish to tote 70 pounds in the trailer.
  • Damn. Connected everything this morning and the controller won't come on. I can see a bit of shadow-like bit, but only when pushing the ON button. Crap.
  • comprendo perdition moments all too well.

    stick a voltmeter on the battery terminals when twisting the throttle, see if you have 24+ volts under load. if not, dead battery. do check battery terminals for corrosion - can be sanded or cleaned with steel wool.
  • Battery only charged to 20V after 20 hours of charging. An additional 20 hours only got it to 38V. Methings the battery is dead from being frozen in a garage over the last 2 winters.
  • Is the battery sealed ? If not check the fluid level, top off with distilled water or boil your own.
  • hmmm. before abandoning all hope, measure the charge current with an ammeter. depending, should be in the range of 5 to 10 amps (voltage matters). if so, chuck battery. if the charger is of the maintenance type, expect 2 amps or less output and a very l-o-n-g charge time. reasonable charge time for a discharged deep-cycle maybe 8 hours, depends on capacity.

    if wet-cell, chuck the thing unless you have a secured plastic battery box and the cell caps are of the aircraft type, inch-something high, turn upside down and hear or feel the vent plugs slide into place. dump a trike with wet cells could make you regret not having gma or deep-cycle sla batteries.

    course all academic if the controller or motor should be non-functional. you can probably get a gelcell type from a local battery, rv, off-road sporting merchant, type u-1. pair of 12-volt 18 Amphours maybe $100 to pursue investigation. monster scooter often has free shipping that size battery, would be good for maybe 15 miles with light pedal effort. heck of a note if you were to spring $500 on a lithium and discover you dont have a functional power train.

    hate to add to the worries but possible your geared wheel will need new planetary gears - those can be cheap replacement parts if you can locate a set.

    my inclination would be to go with sla, see if the rest of the goodies perform, save up for bigger and better components for next riding season.
  • The person who sold me the trike is willing to buy the replacement SLA 48V 9Ah battery pack ($160 before sales tax), so I'll just let him do that.
  • good show!
    the mounting can prove interesting. what worked for me on the rover was strapping them in a pair of wald folding baskets mounted to the cargo rack.

    doing that as a temp on the current delta test bed. very crude, bungees strapping the batteries, cardboard padding, testing on hill climbs, tweaking the controller and not charging the batteries between runs to get an idea of real world range without pedal input.

    down the road, a few brackets, aluminum tubing, wood platform, get things prettied up, strap the batteries on their sides for a lower cg.

    i cut an outdoor extension cord to appropriate size. socket end to the batteries, plug end to the controller for easy battery removal and charging. anderson power poles all the rage but strike me as overkill.
  • edited April 9
    The original kit had a nice rack bag that holds the batteries and controller, with holes for the external lines to the motor and control pad. Should be an easy replacement - I just have to ensure I connect the charger (3 pronged connector type) and controller lines to the right terminals, as well as join the batteries in series. I'll likely solder them rather than trust any slip on connections.

    I'm considering ordering NPP 12V 12Ah batteries (x4) and charger kit as the replacement. Fairly inexpensive but good reviews on Amazon, and the charger is more advanced with better readouts/indicators.
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