Seat Slipping Fixed

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Comments

  • kellib wrote:
    I do think I mentioned this before and also Cap't Bob has, but you do NOT want to over tighten your seat clamp. This makes the U-shaped bracket bow out and it won't hold the seat in place. Hand tighten firmly, but do not really crank on it. That being said...

    "We have a newly designed seat clamp shim set for the Rover seat clamp. As you know, the pressure sensitive versions sometimes do not stay in place very well, especially in high heat locations. Also, if the seat clamp is over-tightened it creates point loads and does not allow the system to operate as designed. This can lead to slippage as well even in “low heat” geographic locations.

    The new design is a molded polypropelene version and will come as a set of four (2 for the sides, one for the top and one for the bottom wedge assembly of the seat clamp)."

    Is that what was shipped out to me by chance? Or should I order another couple sets Kelli?
    ---
    Peter_C
    TerraTrike Rover W/N360 by NuVinci
    http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g475/Peter_CC/Peter_C Trike Album/
    
    (copy and paste into your browser) to see ---> My Trike Photos
    ---
  • Hmm - I can neither tighten or loosen the two 'machine screws' and fear disturbing them will cause one or both to shear. I am under the weight limit, but am close at 335lbs, and I feel a touch of play in them as well. I guess I will need to purchase an entire bottom seat bracket?

    I have not done more than hand-tighten the clamp, and mine has neither 'bowed-out', nor slipped again in the last 100 miles, but I do not push too hard when pedaling due to my knees.

    I love my Rover, and would buy it again in a heart-beat~! Of course, anything to make it stronger? Hmm - dunno if that is the best word choice? Just due to my size, I feel that it flexes a bit more than I would like in the seat area - but to offset that, people talk about boom-flex on trikes quite a bit, and I have never seen that on my Rover.

    I am willing to pay for needed parts because any time you buy a *new* model of anything, there is always growing pains, if you buy the first year a new car modal is out, and they find an issue that they fix in the next model year, no one will replace your car.

    I love *free* as much as the next guy, but I think that free update/upgrade kits is a bit of a reach.

    Kelli - please share your thoughts here?
    ---
    Peter_C
    TerraTrike Rover W/N360 by NuVinci
    http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g475/Peter_CC/Peter_C Trike Album/
    
    (copy and paste into your browser) to see ---> My Trike Photos
    ---
  • edited September 2011
    Peter_C wrote:
    Hmm - I can neither tighten or loosen the two 'machine screws' and fear disturbing them will cause one or both to shear. I am under the weight limit, but am close at 335lbs, and I feel a touch of play in them as well. I guess I will need to purchase an entire bottom seat bracket?

    I have not done more than hand-tighten the clamp, and mine has neither 'bowed-out', nor slipped again in the last 100 miles, but I do not push too hard when pedaling due to my knees.

    I love my Rover, and would buy it again in a heart-beat~! Of course, anything to make it stronger? Hmm - dunno if that is the best word choice? Just due to my size, I feel that it flexes a bit more than I would like in the seat area - but to offset that, people talk about boom-flex on trikes quite a bit, and I have never seen that on my Rover.

    I am willing to pay for needed parts because any time you buy a *new* model of anything, there is always growing pains, if you buy the first year a new car modal is out, and they find an issue that they fix in the next model year, no one will replace your car.

    I love *free* as much as the next guy, but I think that free update/upgrade kits is a bit of a reach.

    Kelli - please share your thoughts here?

    By "machine screws", are you talking about the two M6 x 12 bolts that hold the seat clamp to the axle as shown in the seat clamp video? If so, tightening those won't make the seat more stable. What causes the seat to rock around, is the oil lite bushings that the axle goes though. To change the bushings, if they are worn, you need to loosen the two M6 x 12 bolts, which have blue loctite on them, so you need some good Allen wrenchs to do that. ( again this is shown in the video).

    The new shims that Kelli is talking about, fit against the glue on shims , and only require loosening the quick release. They are just to keep the seat from "slipping" out of position, where it clamps to the frame, if you have that issue.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RV08DjaE ... e=youtu.be
  • First off, free is always a case by case basis and decided when someone calls to order. Second, with the amount of Rovers we have sold and the amount of problems we've had with the seat shims it's not really a HUGE problem. The percentage is quite small although that does not make those that have had the problem feel any better. Sometimes it is a defective shim. Sometimes it is user error (i.e. tightening the QR skewer too much.) We will not have the new shims in for another couple of weeks. We do have a few out there being tested just to make sure this will be a fix for those of you that have had issues. As far as the seat bushings go, there are multiple reasons that they can wear and yes, they are a wear item. No, they shouldn't wear in 650 miles though! One reason can be that the rider really sways back and forth while riding causing these bushings to deteriorate faster than normal. I know even when I ride it's sometimes hard to keep my upper body still while my lower body is pedaling fast and furious!

    Peter, I think Ben addressed most of your questions in an email. Feel free to post any of his response on here. I think I covered some of it.

    If anyone needs to order new bushings or wants to order new shims, give us a call.
    Kelli B
    Sales, TerraTrike
  • Just an FYI, I replaced the bushings on my Rover, at about the 4,600 mile mark. YMMV.....
  • I found my problem after disassembling the u-bolt. The culprit is a missing bushing. A replacement is on it's way.
  • tigerpaw wrote:
    I found my problem after disassembling the u-bolt. The culprit is a missing bushing. A replacement is on it's way.

    YAY - god for you~! I think in my case, it is a combo of my size, and the fact that I was not very grace-ful in the beginning (or still?)

    Captainbob - did you have to replace the bolts too when you replaced your shims?
    ---
    Peter_C
    TerraTrike Rover W/N360 by NuVinci
    http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g475/Peter_CC/Peter_C Trike Album/
    
    (copy and paste into your browser) to see ---> My Trike Photos
    ---
  • Peter_C wrote:
    tigerpaw wrote:
    I found my problem after disassembling the u-bolt. The culprit is a missing bushing. A replacement is on it's way.

    YAY - god for you~! I think in my case, it is a combo of my size, and the fact that I was not very grace-ful in the beginning (or still?)

    Captainbob - did you have to replace the bolts too when you replaced your shims?

    To change the bushings, you just need to remove one of the M6 x 12 bolts, and the axle will slide out towards the bolt that is still in place. Easier to do, if you remove the seat from the Rover, by taking off the quick release and lifting it off the frame first, in my opinion, but you can do it without removing the seat. If you have to tap the axle out, make sure you don't mess up the threads that the bolts screw into.

    To replace the shims, all you have to do is loosen the quick release, and left the seat off as if to reposition it.
  • Thank you. Just waiting for parts at this point. Am not sure if the bushings are worn or not. Just figure I'll change everything at the same time and make it as nice as I can.
    ---
    Peter_C
    TerraTrike Rover W/N360 by NuVinci
    http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g475/Peter_CC/Peter_C Trike Album/
    
    (copy and paste into your browser) to see ---> My Trike Photos
    ---
  • Peter_C wrote:
    Thank you. Just waiting for parts at this point. Am not sure if the bushings are worn or not. Just figure I'll change everything at the same time and make it as nice as I can.

    If the bushings are worn, the seat will rock left and right on the mounting bracket, and you will here a creaking or cracking sound when you turn sharply. If you aren't getting that, I would keep the bushings for spares. You might need them in a few thousand miles from now.
  • It is, and I do. So, i guess I can stop searching for that click type sound I only get on slow sharp turns...thanks Bob~!
    ---
    Peter_C
    TerraTrike Rover W/N360 by NuVinci
    http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g475/Peter_CC/Peter_C Trike Album/
    
    (copy and paste into your browser) to see ---> My Trike Photos
    ---
  • My Rover 8 seat is wobbling. The guys I rode with the other day tightened the frame because it was loose but Sunday it was wobbling again. I checked the things that tighten using an allen wrench but they were all tight. I tried wiggling everything and can't figure out what is wobbling. Help!!!!

    I had it at the shop after it loosened up last time to have it checked. I want to ride tomorrow morning. Does anyone have some ideas what to check before I can get it back to the shop? I'm not very mechanically inclined.

    Thanks,
    Marian
    Rover 8
    Marian

    Rover 8 with 24T chain ring and shorter crankset
    Walky Dog - Checkers - whippet mix
    Bike Tow Leash - Cleo - boxer/English bulldog mix
    Puprunner http://www.puprunners.com/index.html

    Be yourself; everyone else is taken.
  • Usually if it is wobbly left to right, it is the bushings on the top bolt of the seat bracket. If someone overtightens that bolt, the bushings will pretty much disentegrate, leaving you with a wobbly seat. The same symptom occurs if they leave out one or both of the bushings.
  • Are bushings like washers? I looked at the manual and don't see bushings except for steering bushings.

    Marian
    Rover 8
    Marian

    Rover 8 with 24T chain ring and shorter crankset
    Walky Dog - Checkers - whippet mix
    Bike Tow Leash - Cleo - boxer/English bulldog mix
    Puprunner http://www.puprunners.com/index.html

    Be yourself; everyone else is taken.
  • mahlai wrote:
    Are bushings like washers? I looked at the manual and don't see bushings except for steering bushings.

    Marian
    Rover 8

    The bushings are located in the seat bracket, and are shown in the video on this site. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RV08DjaEVYI
  • mahlai wrote:
    Are bushings like washers? I looked at the manual and don't see bushings except for steering bushings.

    Marian
    Rover 8

    The bushings are located in the seat bracket, and are shown in the video on this site. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RV08DjaEVYI
  • BigDuck wrote:
    Usually if it is wobbly left to right, it is the bushings on the top bolt of the seat bracket. If someone overtightens that bolt, the bushings will pretty much disentegrate, leaving you with a wobbly seat. The same symptom occurs if they leave out one or both of the bushings.


    Tightening the axle bolts will not hurt the bushings, in fact they should be tight.
  • Ok, Thanks everybody. I watched the video and have an idea now what I am looking at. I only have a little over 110 miles on my Rover 8 so can't see wear being the problem but now I know what to look at in the morning.

    I like having this forum to ask questions to.


    Thanks again,
    Marian
    Rover 8
    Marian

    Rover 8 with 24T chain ring and shorter crankset
    Walky Dog - Checkers - whippet mix
    Bike Tow Leash - Cleo - boxer/English bulldog mix
    Puprunner http://www.puprunners.com/index.html

    Be yourself; everyone else is taken.
  • mahlai wrote:
    Ok, Thanks everybody. I watched the video and have an idea now what I am looking at. I only have a little over 110 miles on my Rover 8 so can't see wear being the problem but now I know what to look at in the morning.

    I like having this forum to ask questions to.


    Thanks again,
    Marian
    Rover 8

    If you hold the seat bottom with your hands, on either side, can you wiggle it back and forth, from left to right. If you can, then possibly the bushing(s) are bad, but with only 100 miles on it, I kind of doubt that. When you said the LBS tightened it up, what exactly did they say was loose, the trike frame itself, or the seat clamp?
  • The frame was loose the first time but I checked them on Sunday, and they were all tight.

    Marian
    Marian

    Rover 8 with 24T chain ring and shorter crankset
    Walky Dog - Checkers - whippet mix
    Bike Tow Leash - Cleo - boxer/English bulldog mix
    Puprunner http://www.puprunners.com/index.html

    Be yourself; everyone else is taken.
  • My trike came new from the LBS with one of the bushings busted into three pieces. I was guessing the LBS overtightened it, but if you cannot damage them by overtightening them, then they must have been defective, or damaged some other way. The part inside the tube was broken off the outer ring and floating around inside the tube. The outer ring looked like a rough brass washer. In my case it was the top right bushing, so the wiggle was up and down on the right side, rocking on the left bushing.
  • BigDuck wrote:
    My trike came new from the LBS with one of the bushings busted into three pieces. I was guessing the LBS overtightened it, but if you cannot damage them by overtightening them, then they must have been defective, or damaged some other way. The part inside the tube was broken off the outer ring and floating around inside the tube. The outer ring looked like a rough brass washer. In my case it was the top right bushing, so the wiggle was up and down on the right side, rocking on the left bushing.

    When I replaced my bushings, I noticed that I had to carefully insert the axle through the bushings and it was a tight fit. Some overzealous hammering of the axle to get it to go in position, could possibly damage the bushing and cause an early failure. I put a drop or two of lithium grease on the axle, and slowly eased it into position. If I ever got the clunking sound again, it is pretty easy to remove the axle and look at the bushings to see if they are OK. As I said a few posts back, if you grab the seat on either side and rock it really hard, while standing next to the trike, and it doesn't sway back and forth or make a clunking sound, the bushings are probably OK.
  • See if this helps. The first photo shows the seat bracket attached with the bushing on the right missing (awaiting replacement).
    seat_bracket_attached.jpg

    This is the assembly taken apart. The top rod is what goes through the prongs on the seat and the top of this bracket to hold it in place. The bushing goes into the left and right openings on the black block at the top, on the inside of the two seat prongs. The narrow part goes into the block with the lip sitting on the outside looking like a washer (see below.) This assembly then slides between the two prongs on the seat and the rod goes through and a washer and bolt goes on each end. I only removed one bolt and washer on the right end in the photo above. You don't need to remove both to take it apart, but you will have to hold both ends to keep it from spinning as you turn the bolt.
    seat_bracket_apart.jpg

    This is how the bushing goes into the bracket:
    bushing_insert.jpg

    This is how the bracket fits into the seat, showing the bushing in relation to the seat prongs:
    bracket_bushing_removal.jpg
  • Great photos, thank you~!
    ---
    Peter_C
    TerraTrike Rover W/N360 by NuVinci
    http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g475/Peter_CC/Peter_C Trike Album/
    
    (copy and paste into your browser) to see ---> My Trike Photos
    ---
  • BigDuck,

    Thank you. Now I know what I am looking for. The photos really helped.
    Marian

    Rover 8 with 24T chain ring and shorter crankset
    Walky Dog - Checkers - whippet mix
    Bike Tow Leash - Cleo - boxer/English bulldog mix
    Puprunner http://www.puprunners.com/index.html

    Be yourself; everyone else is taken.
  • The sole purpose of those bushings is to fill the gap making a tight fit, and prevent the seat from wobbling. Bushings are made of a softer oiled metal so that they wear rather than the bracket or other more expensive parts. Bushings are designed to be expendable, to save everything else from wearing under stress or due to friction. If one (or both) of these is missing or broken, you will definately have a wobbly seat. This may or may not be your problem, but from my experience it is a likely cause and definately worth checking. The bolt at the top of the bracket takes a 4mm hex (allen) wrench to turn. You will need two, since you have to hold one bolt while you turn the other.
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