Any woodworkers here??

Saw wood fenders in my late, semi
grate ‘Bicyling’ subscription. Too expensive were some shown on a gift page pre-Christmas. Thin strips can be steamed then clamped to a jig to attain
said shape. Anyone ever try these?? Think spring, right FLA?

Comments

  • edited January 3
    Yup, cut the wood thin enough and you wouldn't need to steam them. Glue two or three thin strips around a curve and clamp until the glue dries and you have fenders. Hard part is making the brackets that fasten the fender to the bike.
  • 07saxbwcp4bu.jpg
    This is a mountain bike fender that cost $12 that I fastened with two tie straps to my rack. Works great.
  • I have two diff wood strips in the basement. A cedar n oak. 1/8” thin. Going to try steaming em. Will post Picts as it proceeds...
  • I still use a rack, but may stop using the pannier. Collected too much stuff and was getting heavy. Now have a much smaller bag behind my seat. Doesn’t slow me down, especially on the exerciser.
  • Yes, it is winter in Michigan and someone is already bored! The problems with wood fenders are they will be heavier than other material and they are not something you want to get wet. The only good wood to use for wet surfaces is teak and it is quite expensive. Stick with what you have or nothing like I do and stay out of the rain!
  • I removed my rack and fender when I changed tires a year ago. Wasn't using the rack so why carry it.
  • I have a white plastic barrel that I had cut in half. I was going to use one half as a form to ratchet strap the steamed wood strips to, then let em dry for years. That plastic could be used as a fender as well. Just thought the wood would look nicer. Just two, one for each of our Rovers on the rear.
  • Be care who you say this too. Say it softly. Winter is coming back to floridazed....
  • If you make wood fenders, get VERY familiar with Marine-grade Spar Varnish. 5 thin coats to start (dry and sand between coats) and then apply new thin layers every month of riding, and they will continue to look brand new forever.
  • Once a month??? Oh man. Maybe the top visible portion. Maybe I can make the plastic look like wood. That plastic is prolly 1/8” thick. Rivet the wood strips to the plastic material??? Think spring
  • West system epoxy
  • The varnish isn't to keep it pretty, it's also a moisture and mud protector, so you'd want it on the inside as well.
  • Would polyurethane work also?
  • Sure, but poly isn't really intended to contend with outdoor wood. Marine grade varnish is designed for nasty salt water environments, making it the perfect finish for outdoor wood projects.
  • Well, I steamed a thin pce of oak this pm. It bent right around a plastic barrel that I may use part of under the oak to protect it. Steamed it for 1/2 hr. Far longer than needed probably. Hint: do it outside in warmer temps. Knot sure where smell came from. Old wood or the cheap tea kettle I bought.? Will post picture when it has dried.
  • Steamed oak strip again today. Yesterday, I tried a ratchet strap on a plastic barrel, and then a bike rim. Now I have that oak clamped to the rim in three spots. I am trying to hold off going to check on it. Will hold off til tomorrow. Don’t know the dry time needed for an 1/8” thick strip. Think spring.
  • Oh sure Finn59, if you keep indoors, it'll be dry by spring. ;)
  • Been playing with it. Steaming thin strips works well. Setting up a decent system with clamps hasn’t proved easy. Been looking online for fender mounting hardware, and have a few choices there. Streets are pavement here. Bike paths still snow covered and slippery. Rain this weekend...
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